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Fabaceae FAMILY

Wisteria villosa

Wisteria villosa

Edibility
1/5
Medicinal
0/5

Safety & Hazards

The seed of all members of this genus is poisonous[1].The seed and seedpod contain a resin and a glycoside called wisterin. Toxic in large quantities, causing nausea, vomitting, stomach pain and diarrhoea[2]

Cultivation Details

HabitDeciduous Climber
Growth—

Wisteria villosa is found growing wild and in cultivation in hardiness zones 7 - 8, indicating that it should be able to tolerate temperatures falling to around -15°c when it is fully dormant[PFAF]. in ChinaWe have very little information on this species, though it is as hardy as W. sinensis and is quite possibly no more than a form of that species[3]. Prefers a good loamy soil in a sunny south or south-west facing position, sheltered from cold winds and from early morning sun on frosty mornings[4, 1]. Plants can become chlorotic on alkaline soils[1]. A soil that is too rich results in excessive foliage at the expense of flowering[1]. Plants can take a few years to settle down after planting out[5]. Too much shade or too rich a soil are normally the culprits, some form of root restriction can be beneficial[5]. Any drastic pruning is best carried out in the spring, immediately after flowering[3]. Plants are very tolerant of even the most drastic pruning and will re-grow even if cut right back to the base[3]. Plants in this genus are notably susceptible to honey fungus[1]. This species has a symbiotic relationship with certain soil bacteria, these bacteria form nodules on the roots and fix atmospheric nitrogen. Some of this nitrogen is utilized by the growing plant but some can also be used by other plants growing nearby[1]. The plants also form a symbiotic relationship with a mycorrhizal fungus which makes more water, phosphorus and other minerals available to the plants[3].

Propagation

The seed does not exhibit any dormancy habits. It can be sown as soon as it is ripe in a cold frame and should germinate in the spring. Pre-soak stored seed for 24 hours in warm water and then sow in a greenhouse in early spring. The seed can also be sown in an outdoor seedbed in late spring[6]. Germination should take place in the first spring, though it can sometimes be delayed for another 12 months. Prick out the seedlings into individual pots when they are large enough to handle and grow them on in a cold frame for their first winter. Plant them out in late spring or early summer. Plants are very slow from seed and can take up to 20 years to come into flower[1]. Basal cuttings of side-shoots in early to mid summer in a frame[1]. Take the cuttings as soon as the new growth has hardened sufficiently, each cutting should have 2 - 3 leaves[3]. It can also help to remove a shallow slice of bark from the bottom 15mm of the cutting to expose extra cambium, since this will encourage more callusing and better rooting[3]. When kept in a mist frame with a bottom heat of 27 - 30°c, they will root within 4 weeks and produce well-established plants by the autumn[3]. Layering in spring. Simply lay any convenient long shoot along the ground and cover it with a shallow layer of soil. The shoot will readily produce roots at intervals along the stem. When these are well formed, the shoot can be divided up into a number of plants. These should be potted up and kept in a lightly shaded position in a greenhouse until well established and can then be planted out as required. Cite as: Temperate Plants Database, Ken Fern. temperate.theferns.info. 2026-02-21. <temperate.theferns.info/plant/Wisteria+villosa>

Pollinators

Insects

References

  1. [1]The New RHS Dictionary of Gardening. 1992. — Huxley. A. · MacMillan Press · 1992 · ISBN 0-333-47494-5 ↩︎Excellent and very comprehensive, though it contains a number of silly mistakes. Readable yet also very detailed.
  2. [2]People Plants Database — https://maoriplantuse.landcareresearch.co.nz/WebForms/default.aspx ↩︎An online database of New Zealand plants and their Maori names and uses. An excellent information source.
  3. [3]Wisterias: a comprehensive guide. — Valder. P. · Florilegium. Australia. · 1995 · ISBN 0-646-22049-7 ↩︎Excellent information and photographs of this genus with a little bit about their uses.
  4. [4]Trees and Shrubs Hardy in Great Britain. Vol 1 - 4 and Supplement. — Bean. W. · Murray · 1981 · ISBN - ↩︎A classic with a wealth of information on the plants, but poor on pictures.
  5. [5]Gardening on Walls — Grey-Wilson. C. & Matthews. V. · Collins · 1983 · ISBN 0-00-219220-0 ↩︎A nice little book about plants for growing against walls and a small section on plants that can grow in walls.
  6. [6]The Plantsman. Vol. 6. 1984 - 1985. — ? · Royal Horticultural Society · 1984 · ISBN - ↩︎Excerpts from the periodical giving cultivation details and other notes on some of the useful plants including Actinidia and Wisteria species.
  7. [7]Flora of China — Missouri Botanical Garden Press; St. Louis. · 1994 · http://flora.huh.harvard.edu/china/ ↩︎An excellent, comprehensive resource in 25 volumes. In addition to the botanical information the flora also gives basic information on habitat and some uses. An on-line version is also available.
  8. [8]Tanaka's Cyclopedia of Edible Plants of the World. — Tanaka. T. & Nakao S. · Keigaku Publishing; Tokyo · 1976 · ISBN - ↩︎The most comprehensive list of edible plants I've come across. Only the briefest entry for each species, though, and some of the entries are more than a little dubious. Not for the casual reader.
  9. [9]Plants for Human Consumption. — Kunkel. G. · Koeltz Scientific Books · 1984 · ISBN 3874292169 ↩︎An excellent book for the dedicated. A comprehensive listing of Latin names with a brief list of edible parts.
  10. [PFAF]Plants for a Future — pfaf.org ↩︎