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Rosaceae FAMILY

Prunus domestica

Prunus domestica

Edibility
5/5
Medicinal
2/5

Safety & Hazards

The plant (especially the seed and young shoots) contains cyanogenic glycosides, especially amygdalin and prunasin. When injested, these compounds break down in the digestive tract to release cyanide. Used in small quantities in both traditional and conventional medicine, this exceedingly poisonous compound has been shown to stimulate respiration, improve digestion, and promote a sense of well-being[1]. It is also claimed by some to be of benefit in the treatment of cancer - though this claim has been largely refuted. In larger concentrations, however, cyanide can cause gasping, weakness, excitement, pupil dilation, spasms, convulsions, coma and respiratory failure leading to death[2]. The fruits and flowers of most members of this genus generally have low or very low concentrations of this toxin, though the seeds and young shoots can contain much higher levels. The levels of toxin can be detected by the level of bitterness:- for example sweet tasting almond seeds are a major food crop and are often eaten in quantity, whilst bitter tasting almond seeds are used as a flavouring (in marzipan for example) but are not usually eaten on their own. In general, it can be considered safe to eat any fruit or seed from species in this genus that either have a sweet flavour or are slightly bitter. Great caution should be taken, however, if the flavour is moderately to very bitter[PFAF].

Cultivation Details

HabitDeciduous Tree
GrowthMedium

The plum is fairly cold-hardy, able to tolerate temperatures down to around -20°c when dormant. It prefers growing in a continental climate and other regions that have clearly defined seasons - mild winter areas tend to encourage earlier flowering with a greater risk of frost damage to the blossom, whist cool summers will often not ripen the fruit fully. Requires a well-drained moisture retentive soil[3, 4] and a sheltered position[5]. Succeeds in light shade but fruits better in a sunny position[4, 5]. Thrives in a loamy soil, doing well on limestone[4]. Grows well in heavy clay soils. Prefers some chalk in the soil but it is apt to become chlorotic if too much is present[3]. Prefers a pH between 6 and 6.5[5]. The plum is widely cultivated for its edible fruit in temperate zones,Tthere are many named varieties able to supply fresh fruits from the middle of summer to early winter[6]. Many cultivars are fully self-fertile, though some are partially self-sterile and others require cross-pollination[5]. The various varieties are often divided into groups or subspecies, a practice we are following here. The following subspecies are all given a separate entry:- Prunus domestica domestica. The common plum, with skins of various colours and a typical oval shape, is treated in this entry. Prunus domestica insititia. Including the damsons and the bullaces, the fruits are usually dark purple, somewhat smaller than the plums and more acid, Bullaces have a more globose shape whilst damsons have the typical oval shap of plums. Prunus domestica italica. The greengages. A usually green, globose fruit with a very rich flavour. Prunus domestica syriaca. The mirabelle. The globose fruits are yellow or red in colour and somewhat smaller than a plum. Where space is at a premium, or at the limits of their climatic range, plums can be grown against a wall. Most cultivars will grow well against a sunny wall, whilst an east facing wall will suit some of the tougher cultivars, but a wall that recieves little direct sunlight is not really suitable[7]. This species is probably a hybrid of ancient origin involving Prunus spinosa and Prunus cerasifera, coupled with chromosome doubling[4, 8]. The cultivated plum does not cross-pollinate with the Japanese plum, Prunis salicina[5]. Most members of this genus are shallow-rooted and will produce suckers if the roots are damaged[1]. Plants in this genus are notably susceptible to honey fungus[5].

Propagation

Seed - requires 2 - 3 months cold stratification and is best sown in a cold frame as soon as it is ripe[5]. Sow stored seed in a cold frame as early in the year as possible[5]. Protect the seed from mice etc. The seed can be rather slow, sometimes taking 18 months to germinate[9]. Prick out the seedlings into individual pots when they are large enough to handle. Grow them on in a greenhouse or cold frame for their first winter and plant them out in late spring or early summer of the following year. The various cultivars of plum are unlikely to breed true - they will usually produce a range of plants from seed with differing characteristics from their parent, Cuttings of half-ripe wood with a heel, mid summer in a frame[4, 5]. Softwood cuttings from strongly growing plants in spring to early summer in a frame[5]. Layering in spring. Cite as: Temperate Plants Database, Ken Fern. temperate.theferns.info. 2026-02-21. <temperate.theferns.info/plant/Prunus+domestica>

Pollinators

Insects

References

  1. [1]Encyclopaedia of Herbs and their Uses. — Bown. D. · Dorling Kindersley, London. · 1995 · ISBN 0-7513-020-31 ↩︎A very well presented and informative book on herbs from around the globe. Plenty in it for both the casual reader and the serious student. Just one main quibble is the silly way of having two separate entries for each plant.
  2. [2]Poisonous Plants of North Carolina — http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/poison/poison.htm ↩︎An excellent concise but comprehensive guide to toxic plants that grow in N. Carolina. It lists even those plants that are of very low toxicity, including several well-known food plants such as carrots and potatoes.
  3. [3]RHS Dictionary of Plants plus Supplement. 1956 — F. Chittendon. · Oxford University Press · 1951 · ISBN - ↩︎Comprehensive listing of species and how to grow them. Somewhat outdated, it has been replaced in 1992 by a new dictionary (see [ 200 ]).
  4. [4]Trees and Shrubs Hardy in Great Britain. Vol 1 - 4 and Supplement. — Bean. W. · Murray · 1981 · ISBN - ↩︎A classic with a wealth of information on the plants, but poor on pictures.
  5. [5]The New RHS Dictionary of Gardening. 1992. — Huxley. A. · MacMillan Press · 1992 · ISBN 0-333-47494-5 ↩︎Excellent and very comprehensive, though it contains a number of silly mistakes. Readable yet also very detailed.
  6. [6]Cornucopia - A Source Book of Edible Plants. — Facciola. S. · Kampong Publications · 1990 · ISBN 0-9628087-0-9 ↩︎Excellent. Contains a very wide range of conventional and unconventional food plants (including tropical) and where they can be obtained (mainly N. American nurseries but also research institutes and a lot of other nurseries from around the world.
  7. [7]Gardening on Walls — Grey-Wilson. C. & Matthews. V. · Collins · 1983 · ISBN 0-00-219220-0 ↩︎A nice little book about plants for growing against walls and a small section on plants that can grow in walls.
  8. [8]Flora of the British Isles. — Clapham, Tutin and Warburg. · Cambridge University Press · 1962 · ISBN - ↩︎A very comprehensive flora, the standard reference book but it has no pictures.
  9. [9]The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation. — Dirr. M. A. and Heuser. M. W. · Athens Ga. Varsity Press · 1987 · ISBN 0942375009 ↩︎A very detailed book on propagating trees. Not for the casual reader.
  10. [10]Flora of China — Missouri Botanical Garden Press; St. Louis. · 1994 · http://flora.huh.harvard.edu/china/ ↩︎An excellent, comprehensive resource in 25 volumes. In addition to the botanical information the flora also gives basic information on habitat and some uses. An on-line version is also available.
  11. [11]Flora of N. America — http://flora.huh.harvard.edu/fna/ ↩︎An on-line version of the flora with an excellent description of the plant including a brief mention of plant uses.
  12. [12]Sturtevant's Edible Plants of the World. — Hedrick. U. P. · Dover Publications · 1972 · ISBN 0-486-20459-6 ↩︎Lots of entries, quite a lot of information in most entries and references.
  13. [13]Encyclopaedia of Medicinal Plants. — Chiej. R. · MacDonald · 1984 · ISBN 0-356-10541-5 ↩︎Covers plants growing in Europe. Also gives other interesting information on the plants. Good photographs.
  14. [14]Dictionary of Economic Plants. — Uphof. J. C. Th. · Weinheim · 1959 · ISBN - ↩︎An excellent and very comprehensive guide but it only gives very short descriptions of the uses without any details of how to utilize the plants. Not for the casual reader.
  15. [15]Vegetable Gums and Resins. — Howes. F. N. · Faber · ISBN 81-88818-17-8 ↩︎A very good book dealing with the subject in a readable way.
  16. [16]A Modern Herbal. — Grieve. · Penguin · 1984 · ISBN 0-14-046-440-9 ↩︎Not so modern (1930's?) but lots of information, mainly temperate plants.
  17. [17]Plants for Man. — Schery. R. W. ↩︎Fairly readable but not very comprehensive. Deals with plants from around the world.
  18. [18]The Herb Book. — Lust. J. · Bantam books · 1983 · ISBN 0-553-23827-2 ↩︎Lots of information tightly crammed into a fairly small book.
  19. [19]Nature's Colors - Dyes from Plants. — Grae. I. · MacMillan Publishing Co. New York. · 1974 · ISBN 0-02-544950-8 ↩︎A very good and readable book on dyeing.
  20. [20]The Useful Plants of Great Britain. — Johnson. C. P. ↩︎Written about a hundred years ago, but still a very good guide to the useful plants of Britain.
  21. [21]A Manual of Indian Timbers. — Gamble. J. S. · Bishen Singh Mahendra Pal Singh · 1972 · ISBN - ↩︎First written in the 19th century, but still a classic, giving a lot of information on the uses and habitats of Indian trees. Not for the casual reader.
  22. [PFAF]Plants for a Future — pfaf.org ↩︎